Places

Rising 2,456 meters, Psiloritis (also known as Mount Ida) is the highest mountain on Crete and the second highest in Greece, after Olympus. The mountain was sacred to the ancients the king of gods, Zeus, was supposedly born here. Various adventure sports agencies arrange one-day tours from Réthymnon and Heraklion. Most take you to a decent starting point and then begin a hike through the dramatic, rocky landscape, following a clearly marked path to the summit, which is crowned by the Chapel of the Holy Cross. It normally takes three or four hours to reach the top, and you will need to be reasonably fit, wear good walking boots, and bring plenty of water. The view from the summit is breathtaking, it overlooks the entire island as well as both the north and south coasts.

On Crete isolated south coast, built into a remote hillside overlooking the Libyan Sea, Preveli Monastery lies 36 kilometers south of Réthymnon and is only accessible via a winding road through the mountains. Dating from the 17th-century, the monastery features a church and a small museum displaying icons and ecclesiastical paraphernalia. Outside stands a Memorial for Peace and Resistance, erected in 2002. During the Battle of Crete, in 1941, the monks at Preveli gave supplies and shelter to the Allies. The monument is composed of a large headstone, with an unusual statue of a priest (holding a machine gun) and a soldier (one of the Allies) standing to each side. From here you have absolutely stunning views down onto the sea.

While the coast is very hot and crowded during summer, a short drive into the mountains brings you to peaceful rural villages where time has stopped. Lying 27 kilometers southwest of Réthymnon, Argyroupoli is especially cool and fresh due to countless small waterfalls rising from underground springs. Nestled amid lush greenery and trees, Argyroupoli has a rich history dating back to Roman times it was also much loved by the Venetians, and later became the center of Cretan resistance against the Turks. Today, it is particularly known for its excellent tavernas specialising in roast lamb, with open air dining on stone terraces under the trees and close to the waterfalls.

The Orthodox Church played an important role in liberating Greece from Turkish occupation. Set amid the rural foothills of Psiloritis (Mount Idi), 23 kilometers southeast of Réthymnon, this fortress-like 16th-century monastery is surrounded by high stone walls. Today, it’s a wonderfully peaceful place, with a delightful Baroque church and a rose garden, but it has not always been so. In 1866, the monastery became the central meeting place for Cretan revolutionaries, with the Abbot as chairman. During an uprising against the Turks, some 900 locals (mainly women and children), who had taken refuge here, chose to blow themselves up rather than surrender. Outside the monastery, their skulls are displayed in glass cabinets, as a haunting monument to their bravery.

By the 16th century, the Ottoman Turks were fast advancing into Europe. Between 1573 and 1580, the Venetians built this enormous fortress, completed with sturdy bastions, to protect the island against Turkish invasion and also as a place where locals could take shelter, should the Turks take the town. Perched atop Paleokastro hill, immediately west of the old harbor, it affords marvelous views over Réthymnon old town and out to sea. On the highest point, note the mosque, originally a church, but converted into an Islamic place of worship by the Turks when they eventually conquered the town in 1646. There is also a small open-air theater, which hosts concerts in summer.

A joy to explore on foot, the cobbled streets of Réthymnon car-free old town take you back through the centuries. Laid out on a grid system, the mix of architectural styles reflects the town history, so you will see attractions such as the 16th-century Venetian loggia, the 17th century Rimondi Fountain with water gushing from the mouths of three stone lions, a towering Ottoman minaret from 1890, a smattering of contemporary graffiti, and modern day cafés and restaurants full of students. Sometimes styles are combined lovely pastel-colored Venetian-era town houses have wooden balconies added by the Turks. Today, the most touristy area is the old harbor, rimmed with pricey seafood restaurants, which is especially enchanting in the evening.